--posted on behalf of Rose Nixon
West of Jesus by Steven Kotler chronicles Steven's battle with lyme disease and how he decides to take up surfing again to heal his body and his mind. He is a journalist by trade, and I loved his writing style. Evidently, he was quite an accomplished surfer and he is on a quest to find mystery of an old surfer's tale. As he travels the world looking for the answer to this mysterious surfer's story, and searching for the most rad waves, he finds God and himself in the waves. I learned to love and respect the ancient Polynesian religions and their absolute awe for the wonder of nature and waves. Unfortunately, Christian colonialism forbade and outlawed this intact and beautiful religion. If you love surfing, or are on a spiritual quest yourself, you will love this memorable book.
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